NOTICE:  These are tech pages explaining how I did these mods to my bike.  In almost every case -
I DO NOT SELL THE PARTS DESCRIBED.  I do tell you where I got them.  EXCEPTION - I do sell my custom exhaust mods. 

Installing Kisan Products
MarkT

After a week of experimenting, collaborating with Chet Walters and technical conferences with Andy, head of engineering at Kisan, I am confidant I now have the PERFECT install of Kisan products.

So here is my install, in simple terms.  Minor wiring changes are involved, but it's worth it. If you prefer not to touch your wires, you can print these instructions and take them to your favorite motorcycle mechanic.

Thanks to Chet & Andy for their contributions.

   

Rationale

I've been running this unit for about 25K miles, as of this writing 9/99.  Works perfectly and does a lot for my feeling of safety.  I always flip it on when I need extra visibility, typically approaching intersections, any cage thinking of turning in front of me, and while passing.  I never leave it on otherwise - there's enough road rage out there without me pissing off more cagers by making them think I'm a cop.  I've heard the argument that a flashing light is the signal to go ahead and do what you want, like pull out, etc.  But I've never had that happen to me in 25,000 miles of the use described.  So I conclude that concern is not reality for me. But realize I also run a 130/90 watt headlight and spots always so I have more than stock visibility without the modulator.

This is an unmodified install. The unit is available up to 115 watts as a plugin, on the back of the headlight bulb. It is also available as a "splice-in" unit which is a little black box with screw terminals, for applications up to 150 watts. For both types, the photosensor wire can be routed out the back of the headlight and tied to the wires with wire ties, or you can drill a hole in the top of the headlight and a nut holds it firmly in place. FYI I have also installed a dual relay and 130 watt headlight in Black Beauty - the 150watt PathBlazer handles all that power (downstream of the relay) with no problems. 

Cost

$79.95-94.95 at kisantech.com

Time

Plug-in model: 10-15 minutes
Splice-in model: 25-30 minutes

Materials

• A Kisan PathBlazer
• two wire ties (optional) 

Tools

• Phillips screwdriver
• drill (optional)
• punch (optional)
• hammer (optional)
• soldering iron, solder, flux (optional)
• wire stripper (for splice-in unit)
• small stanley screwdriver (for splice-in unit) "

Process

Open the headlight using the phillips.

Plug-in Model: Unplug headlight. Plug in PathBlazer on headlight. Plug in wire on back.

Splice-in Model: Cut the three wires to the headlight, 4 inches from the plug. Strip the ends 1/4". Twist the ends. Tin the ends with solder (optional). Open the black box. Connect as per the label by sticking the wires in the holes and turning the screws. Wire colors: Green - ground, White - lo beam, Blue - hi beam.

Both: Route photocell out the back and tie it vertically to the wires behind the shell. Or use the punch & hammer to dimple at the top of the headlight nacelle, drill a small then the larger hole (size per docs) and secure the photocell with the nut supplied.

Kisan TailBlazer

Rationale

I have also had this unit for about 25K miles.  No problems, works perfectly.  I have never had a close call from the rear, and I watch my mirrors like a hawk.

The unit is available in chassis-ground model, and non-chassis ground. The Valk taillight is non-chassis ground. Either will work, but the chassis-ground unit pulses only the brake
filiment.  The non-chassis unit pulses the ground and thus, both filiments in the tail bulb for better contrast and visibility. I used the non-chassis ground unit. These units easily drive the halogen H1157 taillight - which I used to use until I found out the halogen bulb is defective - the brake filiment is the same brightness as the running filiment so you can't tell when the brake is applied - BAD IDEA, DON'T USE A HALOGEN TAIL LIGHT.

I have revised this instruction to include two methods. Method TL, TailLight install, has you installing the TailBlazer inside the taillight assembly. This has an electrical advantage but a fit disadvantage. Method US, Under Seat, requires an extra step with the wiring but it fits easily. Both function the same way once they are installed. FYI I did the US install. 

Cost

$69.95 at kisantech.com

Time

40-60 minutes

Materials

• Kisan Tailblazer, chassis ground unit
  or
  Kisan Tailblazer, non chassis ground unit (BETTER)
• TL (TailLight) install - electrical tape
• US (UnderSeat) install - sheet metal screw, washer, #18 wire, heat shrink tube or elec tape 

Tools

• wire stripper
• small stanley screwdriver
• 10mm wrench
• Optional - soldering iron, solder, flux

Process

Method TL - taillight install


Remove the circuit board from the box it came in - it won't fit in the taillight assembly.  Access the wires to the taillight, in the back of the taillight assembly - you need to unscrew the nuts on the inside of the fender. Cut the wires and strip 1/4" and twist. Optional - tin the ends with solder. Connect as per the label inside the box to these wire colors: ground - green, brakelight - green/yellow, taillight - brown (or brown/white, depending on where you connect). Wrap the circuit board thoroughly with electrical tape to protect it from water & dust thrown into the taillight assembly from the back tire through the wire hole, and stuff it into the hole in the back of the taillight assembly. You're done, re-attach the assembly.

Note: by installing the unit at the back of the taillight assembly, it is not necessary to isolate the other ground wires as they connect to the circuit logically inboard of the taillight and TailBlazer.


Method US - under seat install

Access the wires under the seat, in the loom that passes through the back fender. You may want to split the loom for several inches to get more slack. Cut the wires and strip 1/4" and twist. Optional - tin the ends with solder. Connect as per the label inside the box to these wire colors: ground - green, brakelight - green/yellow, taillight - brown/white.
FOR NON-CHASSIS GROUND UNITS ONLY The following is necessary so the non-chassis ground unit doesn't flash the turn, license, or marker lights (if you have done that mod). If you have the chassis-ground unit that modulates high instead of the ground, this isn't necessary. Access the wires behind the license plate/light assembly by removing it from the fender using the 10mm wrench inside the fender. Inside are two wires that bullet-connect to a green wire together, and another that bullet-connects to another green wire. Unplug them. Now you need to connect those three wires coming from the lights to chassis ground. Cut the male connectors off and add some wire to give some slack. (There is a lack of space to stuff the connectors.) Drill a hole suitable for the sheet metal screw in the fender, making sure it will fit with the light assembly. Twist the 3 wires together, form a loop to fit the screw and tin them, and secure the wire with the screw to the fender. You're done, re-attach the assembly.

Kisan SignalMinder

 

Rationale

This one is a little more involved, but worth it. The SignalMinder is available as a unit that leaves the lights on when it times out, or with lights off. We want the lights off unit. Honda designed the front turn signals so the running lights go off while the signals operate. We will defeat that. The result will be, when the minder times out at the delay you specified, both front marker lights will be on (both the same, marker light filiment), and in back, both will be off. In other words, only YOU will know you forgot to cancel your signals. (If you have the dual filiment mod in back, both marker lights will be on, as before.) FYI I have also connected mine to the brake light circuit so it doesn't count down while the brakes are on - this requires soldering a resistor onto the Minder circuit, but I won't detail that here. 

Cost

$69.95-79.95 at kisantech.com

Time

35 minutes

Materials

• Kisan SignalMinder with lights OFF option
• #14 wire
• 2 female bullet connectors
• solderless tap connector or solder, flux
• heat shrink tubing
• electrical tape
   

Tools

• Wire stripper
• Phillips screwdriver
• optional soldering iron

Process

Changing the front marker lights:

Open the headlight. Find the orange/white and light blue/white wires together where they have bullet connectors. Disconnect them. Make a wire loom consisting of a y-shaped wire with female bullet connectors on two of the ends. Connect to the orange/white and light blue/white mail ends you just disconnected. Splice the third end onto a brown/white wire in the headlight using your favorite solderless tap connector or solder and heat shrink tubing (my personal favorite).

Installing the Signal Minder:

Remove the left side cover. Turn on the turn signal. Follow the clicking to the flasher. Unplug the stock flasher. Plug in the SignalMinder. Wrap the connection well in tape to keep dust out. Place the jumper on the pins designating your favorite timeout interval. Secure the unit where you can get to it easily - I used wire ties but velcro is good.

 

Here's more background on the units:

Kisan makes 4 products for the Valkyrie.  You can read about all of them at their web site.  I had a lengthy talk with the head engineer, Andy, and here's a summary of what he said:

The PathBlazer is a headlight modulator, that modulates your headlight several times per second to increase your visibility to the cage drivers in the daytime. It's duty cycle is about 60% high, 40% low.

If you scope the signal it's a modified sine wave, flattened at top and bottom, where it's held at 13% power. It's automatically disabled (by a photocell in the circuit) at night. The photocell can be mounted tied to the wire loom behind the headlight, or you can (OUCH) drill a hole in your headlight nacelle and mount it there. Note the PathBlazer doesn't really flash your headlight, it varies the voltage to it so the light pulses. The story is, it does not reduce the life cycle of your headlight, because the power is not fully cycled and the filiment is not shocked. This has been proven in extensive tests conducted by the British police, who has been their customer for 40 years.  It's available as a splice-in module, or as a plug-in unit - a no-brainer to install.  Either will fit within the headlight nacelle. The splice unit also has the selectable option of flashing for 5-6 seconds then staying on. It's available for standard headlight - the 75watt unit, intermediate - 115watt, or for high power headlights - 150watt.  The unit is mandated legal in all of the states by federal law, so they include a wallet card to carry citing the law just in case an ignorent cop stops you. (It appears there are such cops in Illinois, who have been issuing tickets that are promptly dismissed in court.)

There have been many testimonials on the boards about the efficacy of this unit, as well as Kisan's superlative customer service.  I asked Andy about the report we saw from one person who had to get three PathBlazers before he got a good one.  He knew the exact case.  seems that all of the bikes they had put this on before had no such problems - they also had a relay in their headlight circuit.  Then along came the Valkyrie with no relay and suddenly they had problems with electrical bounce off the switch tripping the surge circuit and shutting the unit down.  So they designed in surge protection and the problem is history.

The TailBlazer is a stop lamp modulator that with application of the brake, flashes the brake light rapidly, then slows down and comes on solid in about 3-4 seconds. This vastly improves your visibility from the rear. It is installed with a simple 3 wire splice, using screw-in terminals, also very easy. Plug in units are available but not for the Valkyrie. There are no plans to incorporate the taillight modulation with the turn signals because that is illegal in California.

The SignalMinder shuts off your turn signals when you forget.  It's a unit that plugs in to your existing flasher socket, with a 6-inch wire extension and some velcro so you can position it for easy access to change the time interval. It's a time-based control that you preset for 5, 10, 20, 40, or 80 seconds, after which time it electrically shuts off the turn signals and turns the running light back on. (Honda designed the front turn signals to act like single filiment circuits - the running light is off while the turn signal is on.)

Kisan also makes a tire monitoring device.  You can read about it on their web site. Personally, I ordered all three light control products.